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Annual Meeting
Published Online: 16 April 2004

Build a Memorable Dinner One Course at a Time

This is the last article in our “Dining in New York” series, and we hope you’ve enjoyed it. The first article focused mainly on fine dining, and the second was more of a journey through the boroughs. This article focuses on one meal from start to finish, and we will do that in just a moment.
But first, we must confess a desire to keep you all in New York City as our prisoners for at least a month. There are just too many places we haven’t mentioned—and that should be mentioned—places to eat at, cuisines to try, regions to explore. The melting pot of New York is no mere cliché. From Le Cirque to the street-cart falafel; from homey comforts like macaroni and cheese to exotic, sometimes bizarre, dishes such as fugu and marigolds on a bed of lightly dressed rye grass. O.K., we made that last one up, but you get the drift. Unfortunately, the annual meeting allows only a limited amount of time for experiencing the tastes of New York, and we hope we have given you at least a hint of what is here.
Let’s start our meal tonight with an aperitif at Teany on the Lower East Side, where you’ll find a great selection of teas and a vegan nosh or three. The space is co-owned by Moby, the venerable voice of vegan club music and other PETA-related dishes. Don’t hit us with your swizzle stick just yet. It’s not the prettiest place in town, nor is the service anything to rave about, but it is a very New York Lower East Side experience. And the tea and nosh are really good.
Now let’s have a cocktail before dinner this evening; we’ll grab a cab and head to Greenwich Village and seat ourselves in Gotham Bar & Grill’s vast space. The bartender here knows what he’s doing, so have no fear about ordering that obscure cocktail you’ve heard tell about. Or let him pour you a great martini and then sit back and relax, enjoy the space, and strike up a conversation with someone at the bar. Or eavesdrop on one.
Getting a little hungry now? Let’s take a walk around the corner to Otto for an appetizer. Chef Mario Batalis’s newish space is a take on a pizzeria. But this isn’t pizza as most of you know it—it’s the real thing. Several of the ingredients are made in house, such as the salami and mozzarella. One of the most famous pizzas here is the Lardo. Yes, lardo. It’s the house-cured pork fatback, and it’s not to be missed. Sublime would only begin to describe it. But let’s begin with a few plates of olives, some fungi mista, some brussel sprouts and Vin Cotto, and maybe some preserved swordfish with ramps. If anyone else joins us, well, take some mussels with pepperonata and mint as well. Perfect, isn’t it?
Now take a look at the wine list. Have you ever seen an Italian wine list that long before? Well, come back another time for a bottle and the Otto Lardo (you know you want to), but right now let’s head over to Blue Water Grill for dinner. The space was once a basement speakeasy, but it has been transformed into a beautiful setting with brick and wood. Minimalist, but not cold. And the food? This should be the standard for seafood. And take a look at that raw bar! Superior in every way. Go ahead order anything. It will be divine.
Why don’t we walk a bit, get some fresh air to aid our digestion, and enjoy the sights and sounds of Union Square while we head over to Sage in the Gramercy Park area where we’ll have an after-dinner drink before saying good night. I think the bar upstairs here is awfully nice and will be perfect for having a snifter of cognac or your preferred digestive. Let’s sit here for a moment and relax.
We’ve enjoyed being your host, and we hope you’ll be able to come back soon. This evening was wonderful, wasn’t it? Now that’s eating in New York! ▪

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Published online: 16 April 2004
Published in print: April 16, 2004

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In New York, the food problem will be so many choices and so little time. In the last of our articles on the city's culinary bounty, we provide the elements for you to compose one fabulous dining fantasy.

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David M. McDowell, M.D.

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